The first time you set foot in a cider bar in Oviedo and see someone pouring from above with one hand while holding the glass almost flush with the floor with the other, you think, “This is quite a spectacle.” But when they hand you the bottle and it’s your turn, you realize that not just anyone can do it: it’s a tradition that runs in your veins.
Oviedo is the capital of Asturias, but it’s also the capital of cider. Calle Gascona is the epicenter of the city, a street where the aroma of chorizo and cider mixes with the constant sound of bottles being uncorked and the “salú!” cheers heard every two minutes.
If you come with luggage and don’t want to carry it around while enjoying the best cider bars in the world, you can leave your luggage in our luggage storage in the city center.
What is “Chocar Culines”?
Before embarking on this adventure, you need to understand one thing: in Asturias, people don’t drink cider, they “pour a culín.” And it’s not just a matter of pouring cider into a glass; it’s a whole ritual.
Pouring involves holding the bottle above your head with one arm outstretched and the glass below, almost at knee height, so that the cider falls from above and “breaks” as it enters the glass. The reason? To oxygenate the cider and release all its aroma and flavor. Only two fingers of cider are served (the famous “culín”), and it is drunk in one gulp. What remains in the glass is thrown on the floor or down the drains in the cider bars.
“Chocar culines” means to toast with that drink. You clink glasses, look the other person in the eye (important, otherwise it brings bad luck), say “salú!” and drink it all. Then you pour again for the next person. This tradition forces you to slow down, socialize, and share the bottle. It’s not a race, it’s a way of life. And believe me, after two or three cider bars, you’ll be pouring as if you’ve been doing it all your life.
The Heart of Cider: The Gascona Route
Calle Gascona is where you have to start, finish, and lose yourself at will. It is a pedestrian street in the heart of Oviedo, near the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, and it is home to the best cider bars in the city. On weekends, it fills to capacity, especially after 9:00 p.m.
The atmosphere is electric, with people standing outside with bottles in hand, tables shared with strangers who become friends by the end of the night, and waiters who pour cider with dizzying skill. Thursday and Friday nights are when it’s liveliest, although Saturday is also lively. If you’re looking for something quieter, go during the week.
My advice: start at one end of Gascona (for example, from Plaza del Paraguas) and work your way slowly along. Don’t stop at the first cider house you see. The fun of the route is trying different places: a bottle here, a piece of tortilla there, another glass further on. Also, if you start early (around 8:00 p.m.), you’ll avoid the crowds and be able to sit down and relax.
Useful parking tip: Forget about parking in Gascona, as it’s a pedestrian zone and the nearby streets are jammed on weekends. Your best bet is to leave your car in the Campo San Francisco parking lot (a 5-minute walk away) or in the Llamaquique parking lot.
The 4 Essential Cider Houses on the Route
Campillín Tables: The Temple of Cachopo
If there’s one place where cachopo is a religion, it’s here. Las Tablas del Campillín’s cachopos are the most award-winning in Oviedo, and it’s no coincidence. This restaurant is located on Calle Gascona itself and always has a line, which tells you something.
Cachopo is a thick beef fillet stuffed with ham and cheese, breaded and fried. Here they serve it just right: crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and so big that you’ll wonder if you can finish it (spoiler: you can, and you’ll want seconds). You can choose between traditional cachopo, minced meat cachopo, cured beef cachopo… They’re all spectacular. Pair it with a bottle of ice-cold cider and you’ve got the perfect combo.
If you go on the weekend, arrive early or you’ll have to wait. They don’t take reservations, so it’s first come, first served. Approximate price: Cachopo from €18-22. Bottle of cider: €3-4.
Tierra Astur Oviedo: Local Products with a Seal of Quality
Tierra Astur is an Asturian chain that has managed to maintain the essence of traditional cider bars, but with a more modern and refined touch. The Oviedo location is in Gascona and has two floors, so there is more space than in other cider bars (although it still gets crowded).
Here you can order anything from a platter of Asturian cured meats (chorizo, blood sausage, salchichón) to more elaborate dishes such as grilled octopus or fabada croquettes that are to die for. Everything they serve is high-quality Asturian produce: meats, cheeses, cured meats… You can tell. The atmosphere is lively, but not as wild as in other cider bars. If you’re going with people who have never been to a cider bar before, this is a good place to start.
With the Seal of Nacho Manzano
Nastura, by Nacho Manzano, at El Vasco
Nacho Manzano is one of Asturias’ most renowned chefs (two Michelin stars at Casa Marcial), and in Oviedo he has Nastura, inside the El Vasco gastronomic complex. This place is an interesting mix: on one side, you have the informal cider bar with high tables and a snacking atmosphere, and at the back is NM, his Michelin-starred restaurant.
In the cider bar, you can order traditional Asturian dishes, but with Manzano’s seal of quality. The fabada here is incredible: creamy, with beans that melt in your mouth, and a spectacular compango (chorizo, blood sausage, bacon). If you want to try Asturian haute cuisine without spending a fortune at the Michelin-starred restaurant, Nastura’s cider bar is the place for you. Approximate price: Fabada €16-18. Bottle of cider: €4-5.
Gloria's Ham Croquettes
At Nastura, Gloria’s ham croquettes are legendary. Gloria has been making these croquettes for years, and the recipe is a closely guarded secret. The béchamel sauce is perfect: creamy but not pasty, with an intense but balanced ham flavor. The outer layer is thin and crispy. If you go to Nastura, order the croquettes. It’s a must.
Asturian cuisine in its purest form
Casa Fermín: The Exquisite Cuisine of Luis Alberto Martínez
Casa Fermín is not in Gascona, but near the Cathedral, but it’s worth the detour. This is a restaurant with more tradition (founded in 1936) and here Asturian cuisine is taken very seriously. Luis Alberto Martínez is in charge of the kitchen and his cuisine is one of the best in Oviedo.
The rice with lobster is one of their star dishes, but if you want to go traditional, order the fabada (bean stew) or the cachopo (a breaded sandwich with beef, ham, and cheese). They also have a menu of fresh fish that changes according to the season. The atmosphere here is more like a restaurant than a cider house, but you can order cider and they will pour it for you without any problem. If you are looking for something quieter and more refined after the hustle and bustle of Gascona, Casa Fermín is the place.
Casa Chema: Joaqui and his Garden
Casa Chema is located in Villafría, on the outskirts of Oviedo (about 15 minutes by car), but if you have time and enjoy seasonal cuisine, this place is a gem. Joaqui, the chef at Casa Chema, has her own vegetable garden where she grows the vegetables she uses in the kitchen. Everything is locally sourced, seasonal, and made with care.
You won’t find cachopo or traditional fabada here: the cuisine is more creative, although with Asturian roots. Tasting menus that change according to what’s in the garden, fresh fish from the Cantabrian Sea, matured meats… It’s a different, more leisurely experience. It’s not a typical cider house, but they have a good cider list and the service is friendly. If you go, book in advance.
Beyond Gascona: Alternatives in the Old Town
If you want to get away from the main tourist trail in Gascona (or if it’s too crowded), there are other areas that are just as authentic.
- Plaza del Fontán: This square is beautiful, with arcades and colorful buildings. There are several quieter cider bars here, perfect if you’re with older people or children. On Sunday mornings there’s a market and the atmosphere is very local.
- Cathedral area: Streets such as Cimadevilla and Rúa have smaller cider bars with fewer tourists. The atmosphere is more neighborhood-like and authentic. If you’re looking to chat with locals, this is the area for you.
If you go during the week, many cider bars in these areas have set menus for €12-15 that include a starter, main course, dessert, bread, and cider or a drink. It’s a cheap way to try Asturian cuisine.
The Cider Route is More Than Just Eating and Drinking
The cider route in Oviedo isn’t just about going from bar to bar drinking cider and eating cachopo (although that’s reason enough to come). It’s a cultural immersion in a tradition that Asturians have in their blood. Here, cider isn’t just a drink, it’s a way of socializing, sharing, and being. You sit down with strangers and end up talking about life. You pour the cider wrong at first and someone corrects you with a smile. Oviedo is a small, welcoming city with a beautiful old town and incredible cuisine. Calle Gascona is the heart of it all, but there is much more to discover.
Where to Leave Your Luggage Before the Tour
If you come to Oviedo with a suitcase or large backpack, leave it in an automatic locker before setting off on your cider bar tour. There is no space for luggage in cider bars, and you will be moving from place to place, standing up, pouring cider… It’s impossible with a suitcase.
At Lock Here Now, we have automatic lockers in Oviedo where you can leave your belongings safely. Reserve your locker online, receive a code, store your luggage, and forget about it. When you finish the route (or the next day if you stay overnight in Oviedo), pick it up and you’re done. We have locations near the train and bus stations in Oviedo, so if you’ve just arrived or are about to leave, you can leave your things and enjoy your time without carrying your luggage around.
