If you ask a Valencian about paella, the first thing they’ll tell you is that paella is eaten at midday, never in the evening. The second piece of advice is that real paella is the Valencian variety, made with chicken, rabbit, garrofó beans, green beans and saffron. Full stop.
They’ll also tell you that the rice should be loose, with just the right amount of socarrat – that golden crust at the bottom which is the dish’s true treasure. And, above all, they’ll warn you to steer clear of any place that offers ready-made paella or has had it cooked since the morning. Paella is always made instantly.
What the Valencians don't tell you
There’s one type of paella that Valencians rarely mention outside their home region: paella de puchero. It’s made with the leftover stock from cocido and contains chickpeas, meat and a surprising twist. There’s also artichoke paella, a typical seasonal dish, or vegetable paella, which many families prepare when they fancy something lighter. These paellas don’t feature on tourist menus, but they’re just as authentic and delicious. If you manage to get someone to invite you round for a homemade paella on a Sunday, you’ve hit the gastronomic jackpot.
Our best tips for paella in Valencia
What you should never order if you don’t want to give yourself away as a tourist
Never, ever order mixed paella if you want to earn the respect of a Valencian. Mixing meat and seafood is considered a culinary sacrilege in these parts. Nor should you order paella in the evening or expect it to be served on an individual plate. Paella is eaten straight from the paellera, with a wooden spoon, and is shared. If anyone offers you paella with chorizo, get up and leave. And please, don’t call it ‘a paella’; simply say ‘paella’, without the article. These little details make all the difference between coming across as just another tourist and someone who respects tradition.
Sunday´s paella
In Valencia, Sunday is a sacred day for paella. Families get together, often outdoors or on the family house, and the ritual begins mid-morning. First, the fire is prepared; then the ingredients are gently fried, the rice is added at just the right moment, and it’s left to cook whilst everyone enjoys an aperitif.
Sunday paella isn’t just a meal, it’s a celebration, a time to be together and chat about everything whilst the rice simmers. If you’re lucky enough to be invited to a Valencian family paella, go with an empty stomach and plenty of time, because you’re in for a real feast and an experience that no restaurant can match.
Michelin-starred restaurants vs. beach bars: where does the truth about rice lie?
Valencia has Michelin-starred restaurants that serve spectacular rice dishes, using modern techniques and impeccable presentation. But many Valencians will tell you that the best paella isn’t to be found in these gastronomic temples, but rather in beach bars or neighbourhood eateries that have been serving the same dishes for decades.
Both options could be excellent, but the experience is completely different. At the beach, you eat with your feet in the sand, listening to the sound of the sea. In the Michelin-starred restaurants, you enjoy a more elaborate and sophisticated experience. The true essence of rice lies in its flavour, in the grain being cooked to perfection, in that perfect ‘socarrat’ that cannot be achieved in a hurry. It all depends on what you’re looking for.
The 3 pm problem: why the timetable is important
Paella is eaten between two and three in the afternoon, and this time is non-negotiable. Why? Because paella is a dish that takes time to cook and digest. It’s made to order and needs time to cook properly. What’s more, Valencians consider paella to be a hearty meal that doesn’t really fit in with dinner. If you turn up at a restaurant at four in the afternoon asking for paella, you’ll probably get a strange look or be told straight out that they’ve run out. Plan your day in Valencia bearing in mind that paella has its own time, and that time is midday.
Other rice dishes that a Valencian would ask you to try
Valencia is a land of rice dishes, not just paella. Fideuà, made with vermicelli, is another classic that many people prefer. Black rice, made with squid ink, has an intense, sea-like flavour that leaves no one indifferent. There’s also arroz a banda, served with aioli on the side, or arroz del senyoret, which is shelled and ready to eat without getting your hands dirty. Each of these rice dishes has its own character and its own moment. A good culinary tour of Valencia involves trying several of them, not just sticking to paella.
The fair price for good-quality rice
A good-quality paella in Valencia can cost between 15 and 25 euros per person, depending on the restaurant and the ingredients. If you see cheaper paellas right in the heart of the tourist area, be wary. It’s likely to be pre-cooked or poor-quality rice.
You don’t need to spend a fortune either: there are modest places where you can enjoy an excellent paella for a reasonable price. The trick is to steer clear of the most touristy areas, ask the locals or look out for where the Valencians themselves are eating. And remember that paella is ordered for a minimum of two people, so the price is always per shared portion.
If you’d like to know where to eat the best paella in Valencia, depending on where you are, here at Lock Here Now Valencia we’ve put together our top recommendations.
